![]() ![]() If you’re into those engines or need guidance, is a great forum. Glad you got a real truck with a long bed AND and FE. No sealer, wax, clear coat, Gibbs, no-touch tire shine, I’ll just be patient and enjoy it. I cannot justify the $$ for a full repaint so will probably leave it as is once it’s on the road. My 67 Galaxie is missing paint along the tops of the front fenders and more deeply pitted than my Chevy truck. As long as I don’t sand or grind it off, it never changes. Technical specifications of Chevrolet C-10 1970 Price: US 12,500.00: Item location. Lots of this stabilized rust along top of bed sides- it’s largely indestructible in terms of a surface. 1970 chevy short bed pickup truck Patina/clearcoat 1970 Chevrolet C-10. Naturally stabilized old rust- that darker rust like yours that doesn’t easily stain a wiped rag and can almost be rubbed to a shiny surface- isn’t as chemically inert as the tarnish on copper, but it won’t progress like active rust if you don’t disturb it. Brush on one coat of Penetrol affil link, thinned a bit with varsol and a bit of added Japan drier affil link to product/info on Amazon. I have used this information to create my finish on both bare metal (hot rolled) and rusted train track. Try to get it oiled, cleaned, rubbed off, whatever. Clear coating to seal a rust patina finish on metal. I would not touch it or disturb it.Īctive new rust- bright orange, easy to smudge or wipe- is what you don’t want. Your truck has great old & probably stabilized rust. The only thing that does it is time and that cannot be rushed or faked. It’s just my old daily driver truck that is now apparently cool. It’s never been parked inside since I’ve owned it here in the southeast. NO significant progression of rust damage in those areas. I do nothing to it and have never applied any sealer (makes it shiny), wax (cloudy on rust) no-touch tire shine (looks awesome to restore faded paint and can improve rust areas especially after linseed oil) Gibbs Oil (again, darker but better imho than poser-looking clear coat and excellent to convert & slow rust), etc. ![]() clearcoated patina original paint, raised bed floor with black wood slats, modified rear wheeltubs by. I’ve had it since 98 when it was just a $350 old truck, well before the patina fad thing. This truck was taken over to Delmo’s Speed & Kustom with the intention to lay it. Lots of missing paint and old stabilized rust like your truck. 10.1K subscribers Subscribe Subscribed L k e 27K views 4 years ago I will show you how Easy it is to ' Protect your Patina Paint job ' Car ,Truck or Patina Project my way to create a. There is some rust that is just not salvageable because it's gone beyond the "patina" stage and is really eating into the metal.īut if yours is not that far, you can virtually stop it in it's tracks with what the others have done.I’m away from studio & don’t have a handy pic of my similar looking 73 Cheyenne. I think that while rust might keep going, cutting it down to it's bare minimum (scuffing and sanding lightly) and then sealing it away from the oxygen that is it's engine (clear coat) your future rust worries are very much minimized. But you lose the patina which is the whole subject of this discussion anyway. ![]() If you're just trying to protect from rust going farther, even a rust converting primer is a good start. The only place I have actual rust is on the tire carrier pivots, windshield hold-down latch and the base of the windshield frame. This page is dedicated to patina finished Chevy & GMC trucks of all years. That's the case with my '68 with mostly original paint except where it was very carefully touched up. And many of them still are not actually rusted on the surface, but have only the top coat worn off and the dark primer coat showing through.
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